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IS THERE SOMETHING WRONG WITH YOUR SEPTIC SYSTEM?
Is Your System Failing? Warning Signs:
Odors, surfacing sewage, or wet spots in the drain-field area..re or if you suspect your septic system may be having problems, contact Master Rooter right away to discuss and schedule an inspection:
- Odors, surfacing sewage, or wet spots in the drainfield area.
- Plumbing or septic tank backups (often a black liquid with a disagreeable odor).
- Slow draining fixtures.
- Gurgling sounds in the plumbing system.
- If you have a well and tests show the presence of coliform (bacteria) or nitrates, your drain-field may be failing.
- Standing liquid over the drain-field, even during dry weather. This may indicate an excessive amount of effluent is moving up through the soil, instead of downward.
Drain-field Do’s and Don’ts
Know where your drain-field and replacement area are located. When you know where it is located, it is easier to protect.
- Know where your drainfield and replacement area are located. When you know where it is located, it is easier to protect.
- Keep heavy equipment off your drain-field. Cars and heavy equipment should not park or drive over the drain-field; doing so can crack pipes. Create a barrier if accessible to cars, livestock, or heavy equipment.
- Keep water usage to a minimum. Drain-fields do not have an unlimited capacity. When there is more water than it can absorb, the system is unable to drain and filter effluent before it reaches groundwater.
- Divert water away from the drain-field. Water runoff from roofs and drainage ditches can saturate the soil. Drain-fields are most efficient when the soil beneath the drain-field is not saturated.
- Keep trees and shrubs at least 30 feet away from the drain-field. (NOTE: Some soil conditions may require that plantings be kept an even greater distance from the drain-field.) Trees and shrubs generally have extensive root systems that seek out and grow into wet areas, such as drain-fields. This can lead to clogged and damaged drain lines.
- Plant only grass or shallow-rooted plants over the drain-field. This will prevent soil erosion.
- Protect your replacement area. It may be the only area with acceptable soil conditions in case you need to replace, repair, or add on to the drain-field. All of the above suggestions apply to the replacement area as well.
Don’t Do These Things
- Don’t build over your drain-field. This includes patios, carports, and other structures. You may damage the drain-field.
- Don’t pave over the drain-field. Drain-fields need air to function properly. Oxygen is needed by bacteria to break down and treat sewage.
- Don’t dig in your drain-field. Damage to the pipes can occur.
- Keep large animals and livestock off the drain-field. Soil compaction prevents oxygen from getting into the soil and prevents water from flowing away from the drain-field.
- Don’t use landscaping plastic over the drain-field. Air is necessary for the drain-field to function efficiently.
- Don’t plant a vegetable garden over a drain-field. You risk the possibility of food contamination.
- Don’t install an irrigation system in the drain-field. Neither should the irrigation system drain toward the drain-field.
How Septic Systems Work
The typical septic tank is a large buried rectangular or cylindrical container made of concrete, fiberglass, or polyethylene. A septic tank’s purpose is to separate solids from the wastewater, store and partially decompose as much solid material as possible, while allowing the liquid (or effluent) to go to the drain-field. Wastewater from your toilet, bath, kitchen, and laundry flows into the tank and remains there for up to 24 hours (known as the retention time) before it passes to the drain-field. This helps prevent clogging of the drain-field, which can lead to failure and costly repairs. costing you thousands of dollars. Plus, if you sell your home, your septic system must be in good working order. Therefore, it makes good sense to understand and care for your septic system. There are many different types of septic systems that fit a wide range of soil and site conditions. The following will help you understand the main components of a standard (gravity fed) septic system and how to keep it operating safely at the lowest possible cost.
Septic Tank
The typical septic tank is a large buried rectangular or cylindrical container made of concrete, fiberglass, or polyethylene. A septic tank’s purpose is to separate solids from the wastewater, store and partially decompose as much solid material as possible, while allowing the liquid (or effluent) to go to the drain field. Wastewater from your toilet, bath, kitchen, and laundry flows into the tank and remains there for up to 24 hours (known as the retention time) before it passes to the drain-field. This helps prevent clogging of the drain-field, which can lead to failure and costly repairs.
A standard septic tank system has three main parts:
The Septic Tank
A septic tank’s purpose is to separate solids from the wastewater, store and partially decompose as much solid material as possible, while allowing the liquid (or effluent) to go to the drain-field.
The Drain-field
After solids settle in the septic tank, the liquid wastewater (or effluent) is discharged to the drain-field, also known as an absorption or leach field.
The Soil
The soil below the drain-field provides the final treatment and disposal of the septic tank effluent. After the wastewater has passed into the soil, organisms in the soil treat the effluent before it percolates downward and outward, eventually entering ground or surface water. The type of soil also impacts the effectiveness of the drain-field; for instance, clay soils may be too tight to allow much wastewater to pass through and gravelly soil may be too coarse to provide much treatment.
